FEDERATION OF INDONESIAN SPELEOLOGICAL
ACTIVITIES
CAVE AND KARST TOURISM IN
SOUTH-EAST ASIA
R.K.T. Ko
Cave Tourism in Southeast Asia is developed in separate,
independent ways and may differ substantially trom one
country to the other.
The oldest uniformly accepted way, is to regard certain
caves as places of worship. Mysticism and folktales or
legends were and still are inseparable ITom caves and holy
springs, which are actually karst resurgences. Some of those
caves are burial sites of real or imaginary heroes and holy
man of the past. Some are believed to have been utilized as
places of meditation by well-known or lesser known
recluses of time past.
Batu cave near Kualalumpur in Malaya, which is known as
the Temple Cave due to its man-made shrine and the Cave
of Pamijahan, South of Tasikmalaya in West Java,
Indonesia, are but two examples of such well-known caves
that possess traditional values and legends. Large numbers -
sometimes thousands- of pilgrims, ceremonially visit these
caves on certain periods of the year. They are open to the
general public.
Such holy shrines are kept clean and are managed by
wardens. Parts of the cave interior are, however, generally
equipped with furniture or structures to place the offerings.
Heavy fumes of burnt incense await visitors. Man-made
statues are by no means exceptional in these caves of
worship
Caves which are burial sites may' also attract crowds of
domestic and foreign tourists. The limestone cliffs of Toraja
highland in Southeast Sulawesi, Indonesia, honeycombed by
numerous shelters, short man-made and natural passages,
are visited by thousands of tourists annually.
The problem is with decorative limestone caves, or show
caves. While attracting a fast growing number of tourists, it
is very unfortunate that there are not enough capable
persons yet, who possess the skill nor knowledge to develop
and manage these fragile natural resources professionally.
Visits to show caves just started at the second half of this
century in South East Asia. In Malaysia, the establishment
of the Gunung Mulu National Park and 1978 explorations,
mainly by British cave explorers and cave scientists, and
subsequent opening of some huge and beautiful caves to the
public, heralds the beginning of modern-day cave tourism.
This in contrast with earlier visits to the well known great
cave ofNiah, famous for its bird's nests and traditional
harvesting by local people.
Notion of cave protection by implementing basic cave
management principles begins to trickle down, but not yet
fully and consistently implemented. The Mulu annual race,
also involving a cave through passage attest this
inconsequence.
Indonesia owns it first show cave in the early seventies, by
commercializing Gua Jatijajar, south of Gombong, Central
Java. It was very sorrowful indeed, that the individuals
responsible of its development did not consult any scientist
or Cave Tourism consultant. Neither did they go abroad to
Europe and the United States or New Zealand, to visit show
caves and to study their cave management principles.
The result, according to the taste of some knowledgeable
cave visitors, was disastrous. People who, when they were
much younger, knew the cave in its natural state, were very
disappointed. Statues were put in the interior of the cave,
depicting a legend whichaccording to the fifth generation
traditional cave warden- has nothing to do with the original
one. A large statue, depicting an - in Indonesia never
existing dinosaur - debauch the resurging underground
stream through its mouth. Bridges, lamp posts and ugly,
large zinc air pipes- circulating fresh air through a huge
exhaust fan -slither through most of the interior. Tape
recorded music accompany the visitors. Vendors,
professional photographers, but no guides accompany the
visitors.
There is no zonation whatsoever apparent, since most of the
space, outside the cave entrance is occupied by a huge
parking terrain, scores of eating stalls and souvenir shops.
There is no buffer zone, no transition zone, even not a
restricted zone, while part of the cave is still being used to
meditate.
The cave, measuring only 300 m in length, having only one
opening and a dynamic carrying capacity of at most 20
visitors each 15 minutes, was once literally flooded by
nearly a thousand domestic tourists, arriving in 30 large
buses, eager to see the recently opened "Java's wonder of the
underworld". Earlier arrivals, still in the far end and lower
parts of the cave were squeezed by late arrivals. Either one
could not return to the single opening of the cave, since
hundreds more were trying to enter the cave. Only a last
minute emergency measure by forcefully breaking up the far
end of the cave, could prevent serious accidents. This man-
made opening is now the exit of the cave, establishing a
one-way circulation of visitors in the cave.
Gua Petruk, a beautifully decorated cave with large galleries
and passages nearby, is much more rationally managed..
Zonation is quite apparent. But the too steep stairway access
towards the cave entrance is a physical hazard to visitors. It
is fortunate indeed, that electric illumination and physical
development of the cave interior was halted by FINSPAC. A
holistic, multi- and interdisciplinary consultative study was
made under FINSPAC's coordination on request of the
Forestry Department in 1987 Gua Petruk's development will
await further expertise and funds.
Gua Lawa, Indonesia's only lava tube cave, open for tourism
in 1979' was developed without consultation. Bright city
lights, lamp posts and bridges adorn the cave interior. A
pterodactylus-like statue was fortunately removed from the
interior after heavy protest. A new legend was ridiculously
created for this cave, which was then commercialized.
In 1998, Tuban's mayor, opened a show cave, situated
directly underneath the very busy city market. That fossil
cave, devoid of any decoration, was used for many years to
dump innumerable tons of garbage from the market. A
multitude of coloured lights and blaring music plus frequent
announcements through loudspeakers awaits the perspiring
visitors.
In Indonesia, there is only one example of a sensible step
taken towards rational and careful planning of a show cave
by the government. The governor ofMaluku, having heard
of a beautifully decorated cave in the island of Ceram,
unintentionally exposed, due to a cave ceiling collapse
during road pavement, wisely consulted the Indonesian
Science Institute. FINSP AC was immediately noticed and a
multidisciplinary team was dispatched three times. This
spectacular, most densely decorated cave in Indonesia,
awaits very careful development and professional
management.
Show caves in Southeast Asia, are always owned by the
government. They face the same problems of 1) Lack of a
conceptual approach to develop them, balancing the
consumer and resource oriented approach. 2) Lack of human
resources: consultants, professional cave developers and
managers who have gained insight and experience through
comparative study in cave management 3) Lack of funds. 4)
Lack of facilities to train cave management personnel and
cave guides 5) Lack of knowledge, that developing and
managing show caves should be preceded and periodically
assessed by a multi- and interdisciplinary team. 6) Ignorance
about the existence of an intimate surface-subsurface
ecosystem connection, easily destroyed by senseless
physical development of a show cave.
The main purpose of show caves in South East Asia is to
fulfil the need for recreation In most government-managed
caves in Indonesia, show caves are considered solely as
money-making resources. In South East Asia, no or not
enough attention is paid towards conservation of the fragile
underground environment. The undeniably important
educational role of a show cave to motivate visitors to
conserve nature, is still a very remote idea. It is unfortunate
indeed, that South East Asian caves are closer to China than
to Europe and the United States. In China, profusely and
Cave And Karst Tourism in South-East Asia
consistently illuminated show caves, with multicoloured
lights and frequently soaked in music, is an unnatural
underground phenomena. This has never been openly
criticized, and it could be the impetus of a similarly
approach towards show cave development and management
in South East Asia. Most show-cave visitors in South East
Asia, having no knowledge about sensible, conservation-
oriented, education-promoting management of these natural
resources, lacking opportunity to visit the beautifully and
professionally managed decorated show-caves in Europe
and the United States, ludicrously are satisfied with existing
condition. They do not know better. That is why show cave
managers are reluctant to improve or correct existing
conditions. Witness also the rows upon rows of souvenir
shops, selling similar items, flocked by "recreation" hungry
individuals, who consider show cave and souvenir market as
one inseparable unit.
Wild cave exploration in East Asian countries with karst
regions (Vietnam, Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia and
especially Indonesia with its multitude of karst areas) and
great cave potential has begun in the early eighties to attract
the attention of many special interest [caving] tourists,
mainly trom Europe. (Great Britain, France, Belgium,
Holland and Italy). Gunung Mulu National Park with its
huge spectacular caves and magnificent karst forms has
undoubtedly sparked cave exploration instincts in Europe to
start prospecting in South East Asia and China.
Caving expeditions, lasting weeks until months, certainly is
a source of foreign exchange. Not enough attention is paid
to these special interest tourists, who frequently encounter
bureaucratic problems (permits), lack of detailed
information concerning health I problems, cave regions,
Cave And Karst Tourism in South-East Asia
reliable maps, transport facilities, knowledgeable, caving
minded, and multilingual guides.
It is not superfluous or exaggerated to predict that cave
accidents could happen in the near future, which will be
very hard- if not impossible- to rescue, do to absence of any
cave rescue teams in the vicinity of very remote areas.
Indonesia has only a few experienced cave rescue teams-
lacking funds and sufficient equipment-located in Java. It is
therefore high time to consider the feasibility to establish a
Regional [East Asian] Cave Rescue team and a
multinational, multidisciplinary Advisory Committee in
show cave development, management and conservation.
Karst tourism in South East Asia is limited to accessible
locations. Main karst features attracting mass tourism are
canyons, gorges, tower karst, karst lakes, cockpit karst and
conical hills. Doline karst, collapse sinkholes, blind valleys,
are generally unknown to ordinary tourists. Arrete karst is
too difficult to reach by tourists.,
Except in Gunung Mulu National Park, no conceptual
approach towards management, is encountered. While karst
areas are prone to be polluted, and its unique ecosystem
disturbed, especially by throngs of tourists, no sound
planning is made. A good example of professional
management of a karst area, tfequented by tourists is the
Ardeche in France. A multitude of outdoor activities like
climbing, trekking, swimming, kayaking, canyoning are
facilitated.
Guided tours to South East Asia karst areas, organized by
travel bureaus, are still an exception. In Indonesia, some
local unlicensed guides make a good living by organizing 3
Cave And Karst Tourism in South-East Asia
or 4 days treks to a fast growing number of tourists, who are
willing to pay much and sleep in simple village houses. (e.g.
Harau canyon and surroundings, near Bukit Tinggi, West
Sumatra). No Indonesian travel bureau organizes guided
tours to the spectacular and unique karst of Gunung Sewu
(Central and East Java) with its huge collapse sinkholes and
awesome conical hills, and to the fascinating tower karst of
Maros, with its many caves depicting archaeological
paintings. Both classical tropical karst areas, described in all
textbooks on karst geomorphology, are proposed by the
International Union of Speleology to be nominated as W
orId Heritage, but not yet responded by the Indonesian
Government.
Both areas will shortly disappear, since cement factories and
"marble" industries have begun quarrying.
There are so many karst areas in Indonesia, part of them
already declared as National Parks, which will in the near
future attract a growing number of tourists, but not yet
prepared professionally to anticipate the environmental
impact; caused by such an inlfux. Gunung Mulu National
Park is one good example to follow, since preparation to
declare it a National Park .was very accurately performed by
a multidisciplinary British team of scientists.
Karst areas of Thailand, the Philippines, Vietnam, Laos,
Cambodia and Myanmar need to be thoroughly studied,
before making them accessible and promoting them to
international tourism.
Mass tourism is never compatible with conservation of karst
areas. Visit to these areas should me limited to special
interest groups, keen to explore remote, off-the-beaten-track
Cave And Karst Tourism in South-East Asia
places. It is mandatory that they must obtain permits and be
accompanied by professional outdoor guides.
Indonesia takes the lead by establishing the Indonesian Eco-
karstological Society (Perhimpunan Ekokarstologi
Indonesia), the members of which are scientists in related
fields from universities, research and development centers,
the Indonesian Science Institute and other senior
government personnel. A multitude of problems in
Indonesian karst regions, including cave and karst tourism,
will hopefully be solved by this Society.
The feasibility of a regional consultative body to manage
karst regions in South East Asia must also be taken into
account.
domestic and foreign tourists. The limestone cliffs of Toraja
highland in Southeast Sulawesi, Indonesia, honeycombed by
numerous shelters, short man-made and natural passages,
are visited by thousands of tourists annually.
The problem is with decorative limestone caves, or show
caves. While attracting a fast growing number of tourists, it
is very unfortunate that there are not enough capable
persons yet, who possess the skill nor knowledge to develop
and manage these fragile natural resources professionally.
Visits to show caves just started at the second half of this
century in South East Asia. In Malaysia, the establishment
of the Gunung Mulu National Park and 1978 explorations,
mainly by British cave explorers and cave scientists, and
subsequent opening of some huge and beautiful caves to the
public, heralds the beginning of modern-day cave tourism.
This in contrast with earlier visits to the well known great
cave ofNiah, famous for its bird's nests and traditional
harvesting by local people.
Notion of cave protection by implementing basic cave
management principles begins to trickle down, but not yet
fully and consistently implemented. The Mulu annual race,
also involving a cave through passage attest this
inconsequence.
Indonesia owns it first show cave in the early seventies, by
commercializing Gua Jatijajar, south of Gombong, Central
Java. It was very sorrowful indeed, that the individuals
responsible of its development did not consult any scientist
or Cave Tourism consultant. Neither did they go abroad to
Europe and the United States or New Zealand, to visit show
caves and to study their cave management principles.
The result, according to the taste of some knowledgeable
cave visitors, was disastrous. People who, when they were
much younger, knew the cave in its natural state, were very
disappointed. Statues were put in the interior of the cave,
depicting a legend whichaccording to the fifth generation
traditional cave warden- has nothing to do with the original
one. A large statue, depicting an - in Indonesia never
existing dinosaur - debauch the resurging underground
stream through its mouth. Bridges, lamp posts and ugly,
large zinc air pipes- circulating fresh air through a huge
exhaust fan -slither through most of the interior. Tape
recorded music accompany the visitors. Vendors,
professional photographers, but no guides accompany the
visitors.
There is no zonation whatsoever apparent, since most of the
space, outside the cave entrance is occupied by a huge
parking terrain, scores of eating stalls and souvenir shops.
There is no buffer zone, no transition zone, even not a
restricted zone, while part of the cave is still being used to
meditate.
The cave, measuring only 300 m in length, having only one
opening and a dynamic carrying capacity of at most 20
visitors each 15 minutes, was once literally flooded by
nearly a thousand domestic tourists, arriving in 30 large
buses, eager to see the recently opened "Java's wonder of the
underworld". Earlier arrivals, still in the far end and lower
parts of the cave were squeezed by late arrivals. Either one
could not return to the single opening of the cave, since
hundreds more were trying to enter the cave. Only a last
minute emergency measure by forcefully breaking up the far
end of the cave, could prevent serious accidents. This man-
made opening is now the exit of the cave, establishing a
one-way circulation of visitors in the cave.
Gua Petruk, a beautifully decorated cave with large galleries
and passages nearby, is much more rationally managed..
Zonation is quite apparent. But the too steep stairway access
towards the cave entrance is a physical hazard to visitors. It
is fortunate indeed, that electric illumination and physical
development of the cave interior was halted by FINSPAC. A
holistic, multi- and interdisciplinary consultative study was
made under FINSPAC's coordination on request of the
Forestry Department in 1987 Gua Petruk's development will
await further expertise and funds.
Gua Lawa, Indonesia's only lava tube cave, open for tourism
in 1979' was developed without consultation. Bright city
lights, lamp posts and bridges adorn the cave interior. A
pterodactylus-like statue was fortunately removed from the
interior after heavy protest. A new legend was ridiculously
created for this cave, which was then commercialized.
In 1998, Tuban's mayor, opened a show cave, situated
directly underneath the very busy city market. That fossil
cave, devoid of any decoration, was used for many years to
dump innumerable tons of garbage from the market. A
multitude of coloured lights and blaring music plus frequent
announcements through loudspeakers awaits the perspiring
visitors.
In Indonesia, there is only one example of a sensible step
taken towards rational and careful planning of a show cave
by the government. The governor ofMaluku, having heard
of a beautifully decorated cave in the island of Ceram,
unintentionally exposed, due to a cave ceiling collapse
during road pavement, wisely consulted the Indonesian
Science Institute. FINSP AC was immediately noticed and a
multidisciplinary team was dispatched three times. This
spectacular, most densely decorated cave in Indonesia,
awaits very careful development and professional
management.
Show caves in Southeast Asia, are always owned by the
government. They face the same problems of 1) Lack of a
conceptual approach to develop them, balancing the
consumer and resource oriented approach. 2) Lack of human
resources: consultants, professional cave developers and
managers who have gained insight and experience through
comparative study in cave management 3) Lack of funds. 4)
Lack of facilities to train cave management personnel and
cave guides 5) Lack of knowledge, that developing and
managing show caves should be preceded and periodically
assessed by a multi- and interdisciplinary team. 6) Ignorance
about the existence of an intimate surface-subsurface
ecosystem connection, easily destroyed by senseless
physical development of a show cave.
The main purpose of show caves in South East Asia is to
fulfil the need for recreation In most government-managed
caves in Indonesia, show caves are considered solely as
money-making resources. In South East Asia, no or not
enough attention is paid towards conservation of the fragile
underground environment. The undeniably important
educational role of a show cave to motivate visitors to
conserve nature, is still a very remote idea. It is unfortunate
indeed, that South East Asian caves are closer to China than
to Europe and the United States. In China, profusely and
Cave And Karst Tourism in South-East Asia
consistently illuminated show caves, with multicoloured
lights and frequently soaked in music, is an unnatural
underground phenomena. This has never been openly
criticized, and it could be the impetus of a similarly
approach towards show cave development and management
in South East Asia. Most show-cave visitors in South East
Asia, having no knowledge about sensible, conservation-
oriented, education-promoting management of these natural
resources, lacking opportunity to visit the beautifully and
professionally managed decorated show-caves in Europe
and the United States, ludicrously are satisfied with existing
condition. They do not know better. That is why show cave
managers are reluctant to improve or correct existing
conditions. Witness also the rows upon rows of souvenir
shops, selling similar items, flocked by "recreation" hungry
individuals, who consider show cave and souvenir market as
one inseparable unit.
Wild cave exploration in East Asian countries with karst
regions (Vietnam, Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia and
especially Indonesia with its multitude of karst areas) and
great cave potential has begun in the early eighties to attract
the attention of many special interest [caving] tourists,
mainly trom Europe. (Great Britain, France, Belgium,
Holland and Italy). Gunung Mulu National Park with its
huge spectacular caves and magnificent karst forms has
undoubtedly sparked cave exploration instincts in Europe to
start prospecting in South East Asia and China.
Caving expeditions, lasting weeks until months, certainly is
a source of foreign exchange. Not enough attention is paid
to these special interest tourists, who frequently encounter
bureaucratic problems (permits), lack of detailed
information concerning health I problems, cave regions,
Cave And Karst Tourism in South-East Asia
reliable maps, transport facilities, knowledgeable, caving
minded, and multilingual guides.
It is not superfluous or exaggerated to predict that cave
accidents could happen in the near future, which will be
very hard- if not impossible- to rescue, do to absence of any
cave rescue teams in the vicinity of very remote areas.
Indonesia has only a few experienced cave rescue teams-
lacking funds and sufficient equipment-located in Java. It is
therefore high time to consider the feasibility to establish a
Regional [East Asian] Cave Rescue team and a
multinational, multidisciplinary Advisory Committee in
show cave development, management and conservation.
Karst tourism in South East Asia is limited to accessible
locations. Main karst features attracting mass tourism are
canyons, gorges, tower karst, karst lakes, cockpit karst and
conical hills. Doline karst, collapse sinkholes, blind valleys,
are generally unknown to ordinary tourists. Arrete karst is
too difficult to reach by tourists.,
Except in Gunung Mulu National Park, no conceptual
approach towards management, is encountered. While karst
areas are prone to be polluted, and its unique ecosystem
disturbed, especially by throngs of tourists, no sound
planning is made. A good example of professional
management of a karst area, tfequented by tourists is the
Ardeche in France. A multitude of outdoor activities like
climbing, trekking, swimming, kayaking, canyoning are
facilitated.
Guided tours to South East Asia karst areas, organized by
travel bureaus, are still an exception. In Indonesia, some
local unlicensed guides make a good living by organizing 3
Cave And Karst Tourism in South-East Asia
or 4 days treks to a fast growing number of tourists, who are
willing to pay much and sleep in simple village houses. (e.g.
Harau canyon and surroundings, near Bukit Tinggi, West
Sumatra). No Indonesian travel bureau organizes guided
tours to the spectacular and unique karst of Gunung Sewu
(Central and East Java) with its huge collapse sinkholes and
awesome conical hills, and to the fascinating tower karst of
Maros, with its many caves depicting archaeological
paintings. Both classical tropical karst areas, described in all
textbooks on karst geomorphology, are proposed by the
International Union of Speleology to be nominated as W
orId Heritage, but not yet responded by the Indonesian
Government.
Both areas will shortly disappear, since cement factories and
"marble" industries have begun quarrying.
There are so many karst areas in Indonesia, part of them
already declared as National Parks, which will in the near
future attract a growing number of tourists, but not yet
prepared professionally to anticipate the environmental
impact; caused by such an inlfux. Gunung Mulu National
Park is one good example to follow, since preparation to
declare it a National Park .was very accurately performed by
a multidisciplinary British team of scientists.
Karst areas of Thailand, the Philippines, Vietnam, Laos,
Cambodia and Myanmar need to be thoroughly studied,
before making them accessible and promoting them to
international tourism.
Mass tourism is never compatible with conservation of karst
areas. Visit to these areas should me limited to special
interest groups, keen to explore remote, off-the-beaten-track
Cave And Karst Tourism in South-East Asia
places. It is mandatory that they must obtain permits and be
accompanied by professional outdoor guides.
Indonesia takes the lead by establishing the Indonesian Eco-
karstological Society (Perhimpunan Ekokarstologi
Indonesia), the members of which are scientists in related
fields from universities, research and development centers,
the Indonesian Science Institute and other senior
government personnel. A multitude of problems in
Indonesian karst regions, including cave and karst tourism,
will hopefully be solved by this Society.
The feasibility of a regional consultative body to manage
karst regions in South East Asia must also be taken into
account.
